Sulfites, The Essential Enemy?

Look at the back label of most American-made wines and you’ll most certainly see the phrase *CONTAINS SULFITES*.  Oh no!  Not sulfites!  Why, out of all the compounds found in wine, does this little punk get his own shout-out on the bottle?  Well, some people see red wine as an open door to a morning full of horrendous headaches and directly blame sulfites.  Seeing the “warning label” only fortifies this belief.  It seems odd, though, that these same people can drink sweet white wines (which scientists have declared often times contain more sulfites than red wine) without missing a beat the next day?  It’s because although sulfites certainly affect a select few, they don’t affect most.  Back in the 1980’s, the FDA did a study and found that “one in 100 people is sulfite sensitive to a degree, but for the 10% of the population who are asthmatic, only 5% of that group are at risk of having an adverse reaction to the substance.”  (Sorry for the numbers, I know my readership goes down when I have too many numbers!)  Long story short, sulfites are not the bad guy and the 1% that are affected don’t even list headaches as a symptom.

But Mr. Ben, why are sulfites added to wine at all?  Let me preface this with a story.  A few weeks back, some friends of mine in a wine production facility gave me a bottle of organic, NO ADDED SULFITE white wine called Siegerrebe.  They did this not out of pure kindness, but because they couldn’t stand the stuff and wanted it out of their sight!  I have a fairly decent cellar and many wines to choose from while I started to write this blog, but considering my subject, I popped open the “gift” that claims to possess fewer sulfites.  Needless to say, I took two sips, poured the bottle down the drain and am now sipping on some robust Malbec to rid me of the awful taste.

Sulfites occur naturally in all wines regardless, but, continuing a tradition since the 17th century, are still often added to cease fermentation to the winemaker’s liking.  As a bonus, they can also act as a preservative to prevent spoilage and hindering the introduction of oxygen to the juice while being transferred from a holding tank to the bottle.  Bottle Shock, however, is often a side effect when adding SO2 to wine during bottling, but often dissipates with time (the longest being a few months).  All in all, I wish I had an answer to the age-old question of “why does red wine give me a headache?”, but even science still can’t explain this phenomenon.  Is it the tannins? Histamines (I’ve heard taking Sudafed helps)? A separate unknown naturally-occurring compound created during fermentation?  Who knows, but sulfites are essential to the flavor and life of the wines you love so let the myth die!

 

For more information on Sulfite Sensitivity, check out these websites:

http://www.straightdope.com/columns/read/687/is-there-any-danger-from-sulfites-in-wine

http://waterhouse.ucdavis.edu/winecomp/so2.htm

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fy731

About The Author

Ben Hilzinger is a wine slinger at Nectar Tasting Room and at the Arbor Crest Winery. During the day he masquerades as an aspiring drum teacher seeking to instill a sense of rhythm in wanna be rockers. In the evening Ben dons his rock star cape as a drummer for a local band. Ben hopes to share the love of wine with his generation and has aspirations to be a wine maker.

 

Everyone Is a Wine Expert

“Once you know what you like, you’re already an expert.” This is a phrase I use all too often in the tasting room for intimidated newbies and, in many ways, I believe it.  Sounds pretty simple and inviting right?  Sadly, the man behind curtain would agree that there’s more to enjoying wine than simply sticking to what you’ve previously found easy and comfortable.  The world of wine is dying to be discovered in each and every soul.  Yes, if you’re a novice drinker and find Franzia to be smooth and elegant then that’s your prerogative.  I’ll even find myself enjoying a nice glass of boxed wine on a summer camping trip.  But for me to say you’re an expert in my tasting room needs the accompaniment of a little more explanation.

No one, and I mean no one, has ever been born with an amazing wine palate.  It’s a physiological and psychological structure, if you will, built with experience, dedication, and attention to every subtle detail inhabited by the wines we’ve had in our past.  An expert might know more than one can conceive, but life has shown me the true best of the best are always willing to learn and be proven wrong.  I say this because no one should ever “know what they like” and refuse to veer from that path claiming to be an expert on their own palate; you never know how much you could be missing out on.  For example, I’ve had roughly twenty different Tempranillos (Spain’s “noble grape” often referred to as the Spanish Cabernet) as of late, and I have yet to find one that truly tickles my fancy.  Will I stop drinking Tempranillo?  NO!  All it means is that I get the luxury of being “forced” to keep drinking more until I find one I like.  Yes, there’s the possibility that the day won’t come, but to be honest I’ll never know.  There’s too much wine in the world to ever stop searching.

Certainly taste what you know you like, but never be against branching out from time to time.  The saddest thing one could ever do to is become unwilling and close-minded.  This goes for everything, not just wine.  The honest reason I jumped into the wine industry is to help expand the palate of the young and willing world, as well as my own.  Develop and build your palate by taking chances, stepping outside of your preconceived box, and letting the world of vino come alive in you.  Just for fun, next time you stop in the any tasting room or wine shop, tell the worker to grab a wine he or she thinks you’ve never had before.  You can always let them know the wine you usually drink so as to help narrow down the selection.  I’m not saying one can’t have “their wine”, but don’t choose it every time.  Simply acknowledge it as your safety net, but seize every opportunity to experience something new.  Who knows, you might find a suggestible Tempranillo for yours truly.  Wine is life so make it a good one!
About The Author

Ben Hilzinger is a wine slinger at Nectar Tasting Room and at the Arbor Crest Winery. During the day he masquerades as an aspiring drum teacher seeking to instill a sense of rhythm in wanna be rockers. In the evening Ben dons his rock star cape as a drummer for a local band. Ben hopes to share the love of wine with his generation and has aspirations to be a wine maker.

Waiter, There’s Wine in My Cognac; A Wine Blogger’s Take on Cognac

By Clive Pursehouse

Cognac is difficult beverage to wrap your head around and one that I came upon only recently. It’s a wine eau-de-vie, doubly distilled in copper stills and aged in very specific oak casks; it drips with historical and traditional significance, method and practice. Just when you think you might have it cornered, it often eludes and surprises you. That a drink with such origins moves so adeptly through modernity speaks to the sensuality of the beverage. It’s a true beauty, both in process and in the glass.

The French region of Cognac appears on a map like a bullseye. As you move your finger toward the center of the region, you pass through the various crus, or growing areas, of Cognac, from the Bois Ordinaires through the Borderies and into Grand Champagne. The soils, largely limestone and clay, provide the backdrop for the Ugni Blanc grape, and as the terroir becomes more exclusive territory, the grapes provide more finesse and proper acidity for the longer term aging that awaits the region’s most prized brandy. The Grand Champagne Cognacs will very regularly see multiple decades in casks of oak that generally hail from Limousin or Troncais.

Like all vinifera, the St. Emilion grape, Ugni Blanc (or Trebbiano as it is often known through Europe), has moved throughout the world looking for its best possible home. This white wine grape is the second most widely grown grape in the world and its vigorous vines produce thick-skinned grapes that explode with acidity. While it’s made into many a white wine and is probably best displayed in Umbria’s Orvieto Classico, it’s clearly found its true calling in Cognac. The distilling process and long barrel aging provide a perfect example of man’s ingenuity making the most of nature’s bounty. The beautiful aromas of a well aged Cognac prove that only time and patience allow us to see what this fruit can truly do.

So what of Cognac and its place in a wine lover’s home? It’s grown and harvested with the same care and reverence as our beloved Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah before it’s aged and blended to find that perfect balance of flavor and aroma. The time cognac spends in the finest of oak mellows the wine and impart it with flavors of toast and nuttiness and its color (imparted by its time in cask) ranges from a light tan to a burnt sienna.

So how does a wine blogger approach this Cognac mystery, this wine distilled and aged in oaken casks? By tasting it, of course. Never one to be overly scientific, I also wanted to taste some other examples of the varietal, and so I got my hands on some Orvieto Classico. (I know, it’s a whole other country. I’m covered, though – didn’t you just read the bit about not being scientific?) I tasted the Orvieto alongside a V.S. Cognac and a V.S.O.P. The V.S. (Very Special) designation means a Cognac sees at least two years of barrel aging though in many cases more. The V.S.O.P. (Very Superior Old Pale) spent at least a decade in French oak. Many of the large Cognac producers, or houses, actually do in-house cooperage.

As a wine, the Orvieto Classico is a study in contrasts. The nose opens up quickly, even when chilled. There are floral notes abounding on this wine, but one sip and you’re left scratching your head. There are slight grass notes, a bit of straw, notable acidity, but no finish to speak of. I hold a special place in my heart for Orvieto the Italian hill town, but the Trebbiano-based white wine leaves me hanging.

That same vinifera varietal, known in France as Ugni Blanc, is the country’s second most planted varietal. The primary reason is the production of Cognac. The V.S. (Very Special) was a blend of the Fin Bois and Petit Champagne crus. It sees minimal aging but the tawny butterscotch color and the vanilla undertones speak to the time spent in oak. The wine, er, I mean Cognac, had a light nose of vanilla, beeswax and dried rose petals. Flavors of smoke, and dried figs and raisins came across the palate.

The V.S.O.P (Very Superior Old Pale) was a blend of the Grand Champagne and Petits Champagne crus (with at least 50% of Grande Champagne). In Cognac terms, this qualifies it under the Fine Champagne classification. This Cognac had a darker caramel hue and was loaded with vanilla and coffee aromatics. The depth and complexity of this Cognac was immediately evident, and for this neophyte, frankly a bit surprising. The Cognac hinted at dark cinnamon flavors, which gave way to cloves, prunes and tobacco. The Cognac was layered with flavors and its finish lingered on the palate a long time.

This wine guy was impressed. In Cognac wine drinkers will find a kindred spirit (pun intended). Cognac and wine have much in common, including their shared origins in the vineyard, the marriage to oak casks or barrels, the concept of terroir, the acknowledgement of the place that the grapes come from, and ultimately the patience that their handlers display. If you haven’t considered Cognac, perhaps it’s time you do.

About the Author:

Clive Pursehouse is the Washington Correspondent for The Oregon Wine Blog. He has spent the last year and a half discovering the nuance, passion and people that make the wines of Washington state so dynamic. He lives in Seattle with his lovely wife Gwynne where he holds down a paying job. He enjoys exploring the wines of Washington and Oregon, racing his bicycle and being handsome.  You can contact him at clive@theoregonwineblog.com if you need any pointers on any of those areas.

She’s Got Legs…Wine Legs

There’s only one thing I love more than being told I’m awesome; it’s an honest friend giving me a suggestion on how I could be more awesome.  After my last blog, my good friend Mark Rogers said I fell hook, line and sinker for a common misconception within the wine industry.  Mark was referring to how, while sharing a few helpful tips to make wine tasting a little more fun and enjoyable, I very briefly discussed the “legs” of wine and its ability to aid in immediately determining quality.  Out of the goodness in his heart, he decided call me out stating legs don’t mean squat.  His challenge led me on a hunt for the truth to settle the debate.

What the heck are legs anyway?  Legs are the streaks, or veins, that run down the side of the glass after wine is swirled. The French and Spanish call them tears; Germans know them as church windows.  For way too long, seemingly knowledgeable winos have been ‘oohing’ and ‘aaahhing’ as glasses are swirled, assumptions are made, and wine is prematurely judged.  The common myth is simple; nicely shaped, thick legs signify great body, flavor, balance, and higher glycerin/alcohol content.  Wine knowledge is fun, but many tend to believe everything they hear and I’ll admit I never questioned the importance of legs until now.

There is no glycerin in wine.  Glycerin is the trade name for glycerol syrup one can find at most local pharmacies.  Glycerol, however is an alcohol compound found in wine that adds sweetness, but the amount found in any glass is so tiny that its weight has a negligible effect on the body.  What do “legs” have to do with overall wine quality?  There is literally nothing found in the appearance of legs that reveal the wine’s greatness – unless higher alcohol content means better wine (hey…we all have nights like that).  The same goes for flavor.  The phenomenon, if we choose to call it that, is known as the Gibbs-Marangoni Effect and states that alcohol has a faster evaporation rate and lower surface tension than water, effectively forcing the alcohol to evaporate at a faster rate.  As the water’s surface tension and concentration increases, the liquid moves up the glass and pushed into beads.  After awhile, our good pal gravity decides to drop in for visit and pull the liquid back towards the dusty earth from whence it came…thus creating legs/veins/tears/church windows or whatever your little heart desires.

“So that’s it?  The thicker the legs, the more alcohol,” you say?  Well yes….technically, but this still won’t help you in a tasting.  In order to really see a noticeable difference in the legs, the wines would have to be as far apart (in regards to alcohol) as table reds are to fortified wines.  Overall, legs are a redundant observation of anything related to the wine’s significant characteristics.  Please, however, don’t take this as a plea for you to go around correcting people when they bring up this topic.  Unless you’re asked, don’t correct or give advice.  Just be happy that the next time you overhear some cute blonde say “did you notice these legs,” you can nod and smile knowing that’s not all you noticed.  Enjoy life with friends and drink happy!

For more on the topic click here or here.

Here is a little 80’s inspiration on another kind of ‘legs’

About The Author

Ben Hilzinger is a wine slinger at Nectar Tasting Room and at the Arbor Crest Winery. During the day he masquerades at Lindeman’s bistro and coffee shop on Spokane’s South Hill. In the evening Ben dons his rock star cape as a drummer for a local band. Ben hopes to share the love of wine with his generation and has aspirations to be a wine maker.

Healthy Wines

Guest blog post by Nan Gibbons

As a female fitness trainer, I am often asked for advice about foods and drinks which are beneficial to your health. In this day and age, when health insurance is more important than ever, my clients count on me to offer sound advice for healthy living. Many of my clients are surprised to hear me say that certain red wines, in moderate amounts, can be very good for your body. Compounds found in red wine, called antioxidants, are very healthy for your heart. They raise your good cholesterol and help prevent clogging of the arteries. Certain red wines are beneficial to heart health due to flavonoids and a compound called resveratrol which is found in high quantities in darker red wines. Antioxidants in red wine, named polyphenols, help safeguard the artery lining in your heart. A certain polyphenol known as resveratrol is getting a lot of attention for having healthy benefits.

Resveratrol is a very important ingredient in red wine. It protects blood vessels from damage, lowers “bad” cholesterol and protects against blood clots. It also reduces inflammation and helps prevent heart disease, one of the leading causes of death today. In my travels, helping my clients to become more healthy and fit is top priority. Here’s the most important fact I tell all of my fitness clients. The antioxidants, especially resveratrol, are found primarily in the skin of the grape. Darker wines, such as Cabernet and Merlots, have been exposed to the grape skins longer. So what does all this mean, you ask? Darker wines are healthier than lighter ones. They contain much more of these wonderful, healthy components. The darker the wine, the healthier it is. Blush wines are only briefly in contact with the grape skins, and therefore are not as healthy.

So which wines should you buy? The world’s healthiest red wines have the greatest amounts of potent heart healthy polyphenol antioxidants, especially resveratrol. The healthiest wines are imported from the region of France. Studies show that the population in Southwest France has an extraordinary lifespan. Wine from this part of the world is significantly higher in polyphenol antioxidants. As a matter of fact it has over 10 times more. The type of grapes and traditional wine-making skills of the French southwest winemakers creates a higher level of antioxidants, especially compared to contemporary, light, everyday drinking red wines.

References:

Mayo Clinic article regarding wine & health - http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/red-wine/HB00089
Studies regarding wine & heart health: http://www.winesummit.com/documents/frenchparadox.pdf

About the Author

Nan Gibbons is a fitness expert and advisor. She spends her time traveling, cooking, and running the beach with her lab mix Cody. If you can keep up, follow her on twitter: @healthnut2011

Five Wine Tasting Tips For Wine Newbies

Guest blog from wine slinger Ben Hilzinger

Anyone from the smelly shmuck sitting beside you on the bus to the overworked soccer mom behind you in line at the shopping mall would agree that in order to taste wine, you must drink it first.  Not everyone, however, understands that drinking doesn’t necessarily mean tasting. For those who do know the difference, wine tasting, as an event, can be very intimidating.  Ever since a banished, suicidal harem to the King of Persia drank a bottle of spoiled grapes labeled “poison” only finding the effects changing her mood completely, winemakers have allowed customers to sample and/or taste their wines.  Many young people, including myself at one point, find the whole ordeal to be comedic, pretentious and aimed towards high-class folk with a dictionary full of terms and references to pull out their bums proving they know a thing or five.  Don’t believe this!  If one has the ability to enjoy drinking wine, one has the equal ability to enjoy wine tasting.  Here are a few helpful hints to those anxious first-time tasters that will hopefully make the experience more enjoyable and allow you to get the most of out every minute!

1. Check business hours!

There’s little more embarrassing than setting time aside to go to the tasting room of your choice only to be greeted with a locked door and the inevitable “@$#!” moment.  You’ve already made the first step; don’t dampen your spirits by feeling more out-of-place by messing up the hours.  Most wineries are open 12-5 on weekends with many open on weekdays as well.

2. Buddy system

This is the Boy Scout in me talking, but don’t go alone!  Wine tasting should be an occasion shared with a friend, and who better to compare verbal notes with than someone you know.  No one behind the counter should ever tell you what you WILL taste (I find it to be condescending), but talking with a friend about what you DO taste will make you more confident and willing to make more judgments for yourself.  Did I mention it is one of the best afternoon date ideas?

3. Come with an open mind

Throw any preconceived notions about the wine out the window because high or low expectations will ruin everything.  Don’t expect to be blown away, but don’t always rely on what you think you already know; the experts tend to do this from time to time reinforcing the popularity of blind tastings among the elite.  A great deal of passion and hard work is put into every wine you’ll taste so taking the time to listen to what the employee has to say (whether it be history, knowledge about the varietal, and/or reasons the winemaker chose the grapes he did) will make the experience uber times more satisfying.

4. Know the five S’s of wine tasting

• See-inspect the wine for color, legs, viscosity…this will make you look cool, I promise.
• Swirl-oh yes, the swirl that every outsider sees as useless and, perhaps, the most pretentious part about wine-tasting.  It coats the inside of the glass causing more surface area for the wine to flirt with the air and, ultimately, allowing the aroma to smack you in the face.
• Sniff-Don’t sip yet!!!!  Whew, did I catch you?  The nose will tell you more about the wine than ANYTHING ELSE.  Trust me; take a good 15 seconds just smelling the wine before you ever let it touch your palate.  Most tastes are going to spill their beans in the nose. 
• Sip-Ok, now drink!  Let it coat your entire tongue and suck in some oxygen ever so softly.  Mimicking gum-chewing works best for me to bring out the most flavors.
• Savor-Close your eyes and enjoy.  This, of course, is the plot of the entire movie!  Now to spit or swallow is another question for another day.  Keep those minds clean! 

5. Don’t EVER….and I repeat EVER be too scared to ask questions

The worker pouring the wine is there for a reason, so bombard them with questions and if they give you lip just tell them I said it was ok.  Most, if not all people involved in the wine industry are there because they love everything that IS wine. I’ve never met a wine worker who rolls there eyes at any sort of inquiry.  The more you ask the more you’ll know (thanks ma!).

All in all, no expert can tell you what you will or won’t like because only YOU can truly make that decision.  In the same token, no one should ever make you feel like you don’t belong at a tasting.  Recently, I walked into a local winery with some tattered jeans and shirt I bought from Value Village only to be written off as just another frat boy looking for a mid-afternoon buzz.  I knew my place, however, and within minutes of asking enough of the right questions about the wine (and using the five S’s), the man changed his tone completely.  You were born to be wine-lover!  Support you local wine scene and taste at every single place you can!

About The Author

Ben Hilzinger is a wine slinger at Nectar Tasting Room and at the Arbor Crest Winery. During the day he masquerades at Lindeman’s bistro and coffee shop on Spokane’s South Hill. In the evening Ben dons his rock star cape as a drummer for a local band. Ben hopes to share the love of wine with his generation and has aspirations to be a wine maker.

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