12/14/12 UPDATE: NACHES HEIGHTS OFFICIALLY APPROVED AS WASHINGTON’S 12TH VITICULTURE AREA

While looking at a map of Washington State’s American Viticultural Areas with a couple of customers at Nectar Tasting Room the other night, I came across a soon-to-be AVA just northwest of the city of Yakima called Naches Heights. Due to Washington’s abundance of distinctive microclimates, landscapes and soils, eleven official AVAs have been added to the state’s map since 1983. One thing intrigued me about Naches Heights: it will be the first 100% organic AVA in the entire United States. Being the secret Hippie that I am (I buy organic produce whenever possible, and read the ingredient labels on EVERYTHING I buy at the grocery store), I excitedly decided to dive head-first into the subject of just what it will mean for Naches Heights be an organic AVA.

I was immediately surprised that a 100% organic AVA didn’t already exist in California, which pioneered the practices of organic and biodynamic grape-growing and winemaking in the US. In fact, Mendocino County has branded itself as “America’s Greenest Wine Region®,” as the numerous AVAs within it contain the largest number of certified organic vineyards in the country.

So, what makes Naches Heights unique? Located within Yakima County and the greater Columbia Valley appellation, the area consists of a 13,254-acre plateau ranging in height from 1,200 to 2,100 feet. One million years ago, the region was formed by a volcanic eruption from what is now the Goat Rocks of the Cascades. Left behind were rocky deposits of Andesite lava. Since then, other volcanic eruptions have filled the pockets in between the Andesite “pillows” with fertile loess soil. Due to Naches Heights’ high elevation and gradual westwardly decline, the grapes enjoy ample sunshine during the day but cool off at night as potentially damaging, freezing cold air flows away. Grapes thus ripen slowly, and the wine produced from them is ultimately more balanced, with less sugar to convert to alcohol and a natural acidity.

The landscape on Naches Heights facilitates organic grape-growing. Phil Cline is a third-generation farmer from the area, and currently oversees all 35 planted vineyard acres. Included are his own Naches Heights Vineyard and plots belonging to Wilridge Winery and Aecetia Vineyard (scheduled to open a tasting room on-site in 2012). Cline says that the rocky Andesite deposits naturally partition the plateau into 15-20-acre plots of farmable land. Because large-scale commercial farming and the use of mechanical harvesters are not really possible, attention to detail is easier, and all of the grapes are picked by hand. Organic farming, says Cline, requires being more proactive and observent, “which makes us more astute… We have to catch things before they get out of hand, and think about the weather more.”

The soil and climate also contribute to the success of Naches Heights’ organic grapes. Paul Beveridge, Owner and Winemaker of Wilridge Winery, planted a 10-acre test plot there in 2007. Included are 23 different varietals, among them the Spanish Tempranillo, Italian Nebbiolo and Sangiovese, all five red Bordeauxs, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Muscat and two types of Port. All survived 2010′s record cold temperatures, and this year will yield the first full crop. Both Beveridge and Cline believe that nearly any type of grape will thrive, with the exception of warm-climate varietals like Grenache and Mourvedre, and late-harvest.

How is organic farming distinct from conventional methods? According to Beveridge, organic farming is “more about what you don’t do: no pesticides, no synthetic anything.” What truly defines the methods used, however, are the certifications obtained by the individual growers. Currently, all of the vineyards on Naches Heights are certified with at least one of the following designations: National Organic Program, Demeter Biodynamic® or LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology). These rather expensive certifications will ultimately protect the credibility of Naches Heights as an organic AVA because, as Cline says, organic farming is “not the easy path,” and it is unlikely that a grower will go to the trouble of obtaining them under false pretenses.

A common reaction to the mention of the word “organic” in association with wine is to turn up one’s nose — and perhaps for good reason. Wine is made from fruit, and, like any fruit, will tend to brown and go bad. To preserve it, Beveridge and Cline believe that it is essential to add sulfites. In fact, says Beveridge, that is why less than 1/2% of wines on the market are organic [a wine may bear the "USDA Organic" seal only if it contains  95% organic ingredients  and less than 10 ppm (parts per million) of sulfites]. While sulfites are a natural preservative and byproduct of fermentation, an additional “dose” is needed to protect wine’s color and flavor, and improve shelf life by preventing oxidation, spoilage and further undesirable fermentation. Without them, says Cline, there would be no margin for error. (And if sulfites are getting a bad rap for purportedly causing “wine headaches,” Cline believes that the histamines in wine are the actual culprit!)

Cline and Beveridge fully expect that the Naches Heights AVA will be signed into existence this month by the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau). In fact, they’ve already planned a party in September. Although Naches Heights will make history by becoming the first 100% organic AVA in the country, it will remain so only if all of the growers within it continue to use organic farming practices. Several factors might aid in the process: the uniformity of the soil across the entire plateau combined with the success of the existing vineyards at organic farming; clean water from the same mountains that feed the Yakima-Tieton Irrigation District; and the high amount of silica in Andesite lava, which is of benefit to biodynamic farming. Due to the amount of acreage not yet planted, to impose organic practices on all future vineyards might be a daunting, if not impossible, task. The hope is that the organic growers of Naches Heights have started a trend that will catch on. Says Cline, “This is a lifestyle choice. We hope that we’ll lead by example and that others will want to follow.”

Enjoy Naches Heights and Wilridge Wines at Tasting Room Yakima and Tasting Room Seattle.

About the Author:

Sulo Abeid is a wine slinger at Nectar Tasting Room and the mother of two. Sulo is a graduate of Gonzaga University and is currently studying for her Masters in business administration at Whitworth University. Sulo’s wine experience comes from her years as the tasting room manager at Lone Canary and work at other Spokane wineries.

Look at the back label of most American-made wines and you’ll most certainly see the phrase *CONTAINS SULFITES*.  Oh no!  Not sulfites!  Why, out of all the compounds found in wine, does this little punk get his own shout-out on the bottle?  Well, some people see red wine as an open door to a morning full of horrendous headaches and directly blame sulfites.  Seeing the “warning label” only fortifies this belief.  It seems odd, though, that these same people can drink sweet white wines (which scientists have declared often times contain more sulfites than red wine) without missing a beat the next day?  It’s because although sulfites certainly affect a select few, they don’t affect most.  Back in the 1980’s, the FDA did a study and found that “one in 100 people is sulfite sensitive to a degree, but for the 10% of the population who are asthmatic, only 5% of that group are at risk of having an adverse reaction to the substance.”  (Sorry for the numbers, I know my readership goes down when I have too many numbers!)  Long story short, sulfites are not the bad guy and the 1% that are affected don’t even list headaches as a symptom.

But Mr. Ben, why are sulfites added to wine at all?  Let me preface this with a story.  A few weeks back, some friends of mine in a wine production facility gave me a bottle of organic, NO ADDED SULFITE white wine called Siegerrebe.  They did this not out of pure kindness, but because they couldn’t stand the stuff and wanted it out of their sight!  I have a fairly decent cellar and many wines to choose from while I started to write this blog, but considering my subject, I popped open the “gift” that claims to possess fewer sulfites.  Needless to say, I took two sips, poured the bottle down the drain and am now sipping on some robust Malbec to rid me of the awful taste.

Sulfites occur naturally in all wines regardless, but, continuing a tradition since the 17th century, are still often added to cease fermentation to the winemaker’s liking.  As a bonus, they can also act as a preservative to prevent spoilage and hindering the introduction of oxygen to the juice while being transferred from a holding tank to the bottle.  Bottle Shock, however, is often a side effect when adding SO2 to wine during bottling, but often dissipates with time (the longest being a few months).  All in all, I wish I had an answer to the age-old question of “why does red wine give me a headache?”, but even science still can’t explain this phenomenon.  Is it the tannins? Histamines (I’ve heard taking Sudafed helps)? A separate unknown naturally-occurring compound created during fermentation?  Who knows, but sulfites are essential to the flavor and life of the wines you love so let the myth die!

For more information on Sulfite Sensitivity, check out these websites:

http://www.straightdope.com/columns/read/687/is-there-any-danger-from-sulfites-in-wine

http://waterhouse.ucdavis.edu/winecomp/so2.htm

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fy731

About The Author

Ben Hilzinger is a wine slinger at Nectar Tasting Room and at the Arbor Crest Winery. During the day he masquerades as an aspiring drum teacher seeking to instill a sense of rhythm in wanna be rockers. In the evening Ben dons his rock star cape as a drummer for a local band. Ben hopes to share the love of wine with his generation and has aspirations to be a wine maker.

“Once you know what you like, you’re already an expert.” This is a phrase I use all too often in the tasting room for intimidated newbies and, in many ways, I believe it.  Sounds pretty simple and inviting right?  Sadly, the man behind curtain would agree that there’s more to enjoying wine than simply sticking to what you’ve previously found easy and comfortable.  The world of wine is dying to be discovered in each and every soul.  Yes, if you’re a novice drinker and find Franzia to be smooth and elegant then that’s your prerogative.  I’ll even find myself enjoying a nice glass of boxed wine on a summer camping trip.  But for me to say you’re an expert in my tasting room needs the accompaniment of a little more explanation.

No one, and I mean no one, has ever been born with an amazing wine palate.  It’s a physiological and psychological structure, if you will, built with experience, dedication, and attention to every subtle detail inhabited by the wines we’ve had in our past.  An expert might know more than one can conceive, but life has shown me the true best of the best are always willing to learn and be proven wrong.  I say this because no one should ever “know what they like” and refuse to veer from that path claiming to be an expert on their own palate; you never know how much you could be missing out on.  For example, I’ve had roughly twenty different Tempranillos (Spain’s “noble grape” often referred to as the Spanish Cabernet) as of late, and I have yet to find one that truly tickles my fancy.  Will I stop drinking Tempranillo?  NO!  All it means is that I get the luxury of being “forced” to keep drinking more until I find one I like.  Yes, there’s the possibility that the day won’t come, but to be honest I’ll never know.  There’s too much wine in the world to ever stop searching.

Certainly taste what you know you like, but never be against branching out from time to time.  The saddest thing one could ever do to is become unwilling and close-minded.  This goes for everything, not just wine.  The honest reason I jumped into the wine industry is to help expand the palate of the young and willing world, as well as my own.  Develop and build your palate by taking chances, stepping outside of your preconceived box, and letting the world of vino come alive in you.  Just for fun, next time you stop in the any tasting room or wine shop, tell the worker to grab a wine he or she thinks you’ve never had before.  You can always let them know the wine you usually drink so as to help narrow down the selection.  I’m not saying one can’t have “their wine”, but don’t choose it every time.  Simply acknowledge it as your safety net, but seize every opportunity to experience something new.  Who knows, you might find a suggestible Tempranillo for yours truly.  Wine is life so make it a good one!
About The Author

Ben Hilzinger is a wine slinger at Nectar Tasting Room and at the Arbor Crest Winery. During the day he masquerades as an aspiring drum teacher seeking to instill a sense of rhythm in wanna be rockers. In the evening Ben dons his rock star cape as a drummer for a local band. Ben hopes to share the love of wine with his generation and has aspirations to be a wine maker.

By Clive Pursehouse

Cognac is difficult beverage to wrap your head around and one that I came upon only recently. It’s a wine eau-de-vie, doubly distilled in copper stills and aged in very specific oak casks; it drips with historical and traditional significance, method and practice. Just when you think you might have it cornered, it often eludes and surprises you. That a drink with such origins moves so adeptly through modernity speaks to the sensuality of the beverage. It’s a true beauty, both in process and in the glass.

The French region of Cognac appears on a map like a bullseye. As you move your finger toward the center of the region, you pass through the various crus, or growing areas, of Cognac, from the Bois Ordinaires through the Borderies and into Grand Champagne. The soils, largely limestone and clay, provide the backdrop for the Ugni Blanc grape, and as the terroir becomes more exclusive territory, the grapes provide more finesse and proper acidity for the longer term aging that awaits the region’s most prized brandy. The Grand Champagne Cognacs will very regularly see multiple decades in casks of oak that generally hail from Limousin or Troncais.

Like all vinifera, the St. Emilion grape, Ugni Blanc (or Trebbiano as it is often known through Europe), has moved throughout the world looking for its best possible home. This white wine grape is the second most widely grown grape in the world and its vigorous vines produce thick-skinned grapes that explode with acidity. While it’s made into many a white wine and is probably best displayed in Umbria’s Orvieto Classico, it’s clearly found its true calling in Cognac. The distilling process and long barrel aging provide a perfect example of man’s ingenuity making the most of nature’s bounty. The beautiful aromas of a well aged Cognac prove that only time and patience allow us to see what this fruit can truly do.

So what of Cognac and its place in a wine lover’s home? It’s grown and harvested with the same care and reverence as our beloved Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah before it’s aged and blended to find that perfect balance of flavor and aroma. The time cognac spends in the finest of oak mellows the wine and impart it with flavors of toast and nuttiness and its color (imparted by its time in cask) ranges from a light tan to a burnt sienna.

So how does a wine blogger approach this Cognac mystery, this wine distilled and aged in oaken casks? By tasting it, of course. Never one to be overly scientific, I also wanted to taste some other examples of the varietal, and so I got my hands on some Orvieto Classico. (I know, it’s a whole other country. I’m covered, though – didn’t you just read the bit about not being scientific?) I tasted the Orvieto alongside a V.S. Cognac and a V.S.O.P. The V.S. (Very Special) designation means a Cognac sees at least two years of barrel aging though in many cases more. The V.S.O.P. (Very Superior Old Pale) spent at least a decade in French oak. Many of the large Cognac producers, or houses, actually do in-house cooperage.

As a wine, the Orvieto Classico is a study in contrasts. The nose opens up quickly, even when chilled. There are floral notes abounding on this wine, but one sip and you’re left scratching your head. There are slight grass notes, a bit of straw, notable acidity, but no finish to speak of. I hold a special place in my heart for Orvieto the Italian hill town, but the Trebbiano-based white wine leaves me hanging.

That same vinifera varietal, known in France as Ugni Blanc, is the country’s second most planted varietal. The primary reason is the production of Cognac. The V.S. (Very Special) was a blend of the Fin Bois and Petit Champagne crus. It sees minimal aging but the tawny butterscotch color and the vanilla undertones speak to the time spent in oak. The wine, er, I mean Cognac, had a light nose of vanilla, beeswax and dried rose petals. Flavors of smoke, and dried figs and raisins came across the palate.

The V.S.O.P (Very Superior Old Pale) was a blend of the Grand Champagne and Petits Champagne crus (with at least 50% of Grande Champagne). In Cognac terms, this qualifies it under the Fine Champagne classification. This Cognac had a darker caramel hue and was loaded with vanilla and coffee aromatics. The depth and complexity of this Cognac was immediately evident, and for this neophyte, frankly a bit surprising. The Cognac hinted at dark cinnamon flavors, which gave way to cloves, prunes and tobacco. The Cognac was layered with flavors and its finish lingered on the palate a long time.

This wine guy was impressed. In Cognac wine drinkers will find a kindred spirit (pun intended). Cognac and wine have much in common, including their shared origins in the vineyard, the marriage to oak casks or barrels, the concept of terroir, the acknowledgement of the place that the grapes come from, and ultimately the patience that their handlers display. If you haven’t considered Cognac, perhaps it’s time you do.

About the Author:

Clive Pursehouse is the Washington Correspondent for The Oregon Wine Blog. He has spent the last year and a half discovering the nuance, passion and people that make the wines of Washington state so dynamic. He lives in Seattle with his lovely wife Gwynne where he holds down a paying job. He enjoys exploring the wines of Washington and Oregon, racing his bicycle and being handsome.  You can contact him at clive@theoregonwineblog.com if you need any pointers on any of those areas.

There’s only one thing I love more than being told I’m awesome; it’s an honest friend giving me a suggestion on how I could be more awesome.  After my last blog, my good friend Mark Rogers said I fell hook, line and sinker for a common misconception within the wine industry.  Mark was referring to how, while sharing a few helpful tips to make wine tasting a little more fun and enjoyable, I very briefly discussed the “legs” of wine and its ability to aid in immediately determining quality.  Out of the goodness in his heart, he decided call me out stating legs don’t mean squat.  His challenge led me on a hunt for the truth to settle the debate.

What the heck are legs anyway?  Legs are the streaks, or veins, that run down the side of the glass after wine is swirled. The French and Spanish call them tears; Germans know them as church windows.  For way too long, seemingly knowledgeable winos have been ‘oohing’ and ‘aaahhing’ as glasses are swirled, assumptions are made, and wine is prematurely judged.  The common myth is simple; nicely shaped, thick legs signify great body, flavor, balance, and higher glycerin/alcohol content.  Wine knowledge is fun, but many tend to believe everything they hear and I’ll admit I never questioned the importance of legs until now.

There is no glycerin in wine.  Glycerin is the trade name for glycerol syrup one can find at most local pharmacies.  Glycerol, however is an alcohol compound found in wine that adds sweetness, but the amount found in any glass is so tiny that its weight has a negligible effect on the body.  What do “legs” have to do with overall wine quality?  There is literally nothing found in the appearance of legs that reveal the wine’s greatness – unless higher alcohol content means better wine (hey…we all have nights like that).  The same goes for flavor.  The phenomenon, if we choose to call it that, is known as the Gibbs-Marangoni Effect and states that alcohol has a faster evaporation rate and lower surface tension than water, effectively forcing the alcohol to evaporate at a faster rate.  As the water’s surface tension and concentration increases, the liquid moves up the glass and pushed into beads.  After awhile, our good pal gravity decides to drop in for visit and pull the liquid back towards the dusty earth from whence it came…thus creating legs/veins/tears/church windows or whatever your little heart desires.

“So that’s it?  The thicker the legs, the more alcohol,” you say?  Well yes….technically, but this still won’t help you in a tasting.  In order to really see a noticeable difference in the legs, the wines would have to be as far apart (in regards to alcohol) as table reds are to fortified wines.  Overall, legs are a redundant observation of anything related to the wine’s significant characteristics.  Please, however, don’t take this as a plea for you to go around correcting people when they bring up this topic.  Unless you’re asked, don’t correct or give advice.  Just be happy that the next time you overhear some cute blonde say “did you notice these legs,” you can nod and smile knowing that’s not all you noticed.  Enjoy life with friends and drink happy!

For more on the topic click here or here.

Here is a little 80’s inspiration on another kind of ‘legs’

About The Author

Ben Hilzinger is a wine slinger at Nectar Tasting Room and at the Arbor Crest Winery. During the day he masquerades at Lindeman’s bistro and coffee shop on Spokane’s South Hill. In the evening Ben dons his rock star cape as a drummer for a local band. Ben hopes to share the love of wine with his generation and has aspirations to be a wine maker.